Recently my sister and I visited Israel, a land known to many from tales of Jerusalem and Bethlehem in the Bible. Though not religious, we had specific ideas in mind of a mythical place known from these ’stories’ – to actually be there seemed somewhat surreal.

Our expectation was to see a quiet, pious city filled with dusty cobbled streets and religious symbols. Whilst there were these anticipated religious undertones, the reality felt more like a bustling tourist haven; after all, Jerusalem is the capital of Israel. 

Meandering along the famed Stages of the Cross, we could not help but experience the sensory overload from motorbikes pushing through the crowds of tourists to make deliveries in impossibly narrow side streets filled with stalls selling fresh juices, clothes and traditional spices, whilst locals chatted animatedly on mobile phones. This is modern Israel.

Yet the physical surroundings still preserve the contrast between old and new – the foreground encompasses Temple Mount, the gold Dome of the Rock and Western Wall (more commonly known as the Wailing Wall), in comparison to modern skyscrapers behind. As with any city nowadays, there is a juxtaposition of preserving history whilst allowing the historic foundations to thrive.

Irrespective of faith, the religious sites were a marvel, seeing visitors connecting with their beliefs and having such joyous experiences – a bar mitzvah on the men’s side of the Western Wall was accompanied by a delightful band snaking its way through the complex – a special moment bringing enjoyment to tourists and locals alike.

Our visit coincided with one of the holiest times of year – Christmas – taking in the Church of the Nativity (where Jesus was born), Via Delarosa Street (the path Jesus is believed to have walked carrying the cross to his crucifixion), the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (where Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected) and Mount of Olives (where Jesus ascended to heaven) – and yet these sites resided in relative peace, with unexpectedly fewer visitors than outside of the festive season.

We highly recommend visiting at this time of year to provide greater opportunities for appreciating the sites without battling massive crowds of tourists and trying to hear your guide over others shouting in a plethora of languages (although thankfully in many of the churches themselves, guides are not allowed to speak so you can enjoy being in the moment).

Having said this, visiting the Western Wall was quite the experience. From seeing important figures visit the site on TV for many years we’re not entirely sure what we were expecting, but it certainly wasn’t this. 

Males and females are separated upon entry, being pushed through the most frenzied bag and body screening, into a large courtyard milling with locals and tourists. As you near the wall, many sit on chairs reading religious texts literally within touching distance of visitors attempting to place prayers in its crevices. The mass closes in the nearer you get, with people frantically pushing those in front to get even a fingertip to touch the wall – for those who do not like crowds it certainly isn’t one for you.

Crossing the border into Bethlehem, we visited Manger Square and its associated Church. Considering this is supposed to be the birthplace of Jesus, we must admit that we found it to be particularly understated, perhaps though, this helps to focus attention on the symbolic and religious importance of the area.

It feels somewhat inappropriate to visit such a special and significant location when you are not religious, but you should not be deterred. You can have just as wonderful an experience and appreciate how special this moment in time is for those who hold these sacred locations dear. We left with our eyes opened to a world and understanding we did not appreciate before.

Written by Hannah and Charlotte Bird

Instagram: @charlotte_m_bird