Restaurant Review: The Salt Room, Brighton. Eat Out To Help Out!
Sister Restaurant to the Coal Shed, The Salt Room is Brighton’s specialised seafood restaurant. If you’re looking for somewhere to treat yourself after spending the last few months locked inside, then this needs to go straight to the top of your list! Especially as it is taking part in the Eat Out To Help Out scheme from August 3rd. You can get 50% off food & non alcoholic drinks up to £10, available Monday to Wednesdays.
’But Brighton is a seaside town,’ you say. It’s true,restaurants, chippies and cockle stands dishing up the fruits of the murky sea are hardly few and far between, so what makes The Salt Room different from its competition?
Quite a lot, but first, the fabulous seaside views and boldly stated style. Situated in a pretty tricky spot, stood below the Hilton Hotel and surrounded by neon-tastic chippies, all serving Brighton’s best valued, overpriced crispy stuff – you almost don’t believe the sleek minimalism of the Salt Room. Is it an elegant façade for jumped up mushy peas?
Far from it– the elegance promised is maintained throughout. An unsuspected tasteful treat amongst the loud hubbub of the seafront and a perfect spot for dates and dinners for all. Whether you wish to enjoy an aesthetic cocktail with an even better view of the sunset, take the family out for a memorable Sunday lunch, or enjoy the youthful ambiance with friends.
We were greeted warmly on arrival by a stylish maître d. The room was a nice cacophony of difference, stylish friends enjoying a mid-week glass of something alongside couples glad to be off the sofa on a weeknight.
Atmosphere:
We were seated, handed some prosecco and menus and left to bask in the atmosphere. The large space is almost industrial with exposed brick, hanging bulbs, vintage stools and school-desk tables, yet brightened by a glimmer of crawling of fairy lights. I think the Salt Room shines most on a summer's day, but when we went pre-lockdown on a cold, wet February evening, it was cosy and candlelit. Very inviting.
Our waiter delivered his service with an effortlessly confident gait, the kind of service that makes you feel casual and comfortable, yet incredibly looked after. The service was pleasant and smoothly run and the suggestions were well-informed; persuading but not pushy.
The Menu:
The menu was inviting. It is rare that my boyfriend is spoiled for choice, but here he was, stuck. In all honesty, I could have eaten all the starters, every – single – one. Pickles, truffle soy, artichokes and burrata. Reading it was something akin to the glory of opening a newly full fridge, and just standing there, paralysed by the spectacle of food and flavour.
Unsurprising for the veg-tropolis that is Brighton, I was pleased to see a couple of vegetarian options, the miso black aubergine almost tempted me (as a renowned carnivore, please appreciate the rarity of this veggie temptation).
The cocktail list smiled at me with familiar faces and proposed some unfamiliar and alluring treats, the Italian Garden and Scented Pickle sounded especially delightful. I ordered a Jalisco Sour, an old friend, and guzzled it so gracefully and with such gusto, I proceeded to break the glass. (Apologies again team, it was delicious).
The menu has changed since we visited pre-lockdown, but the new one looks equally as inviting and delicious! For clarity, there are a few things we tried that are no longer available- you can check out the new menu here.
Our Order
Starters of fresh, umami aged beef crudo– tiny pieces of fine quality beef with earthy crunches of radish and crouton– served with creamy truffle bearnaise. The crudo was the most beautiful thing I ate, I could’ve eaten several plates more. Accompanied by an accomplished crab dish of brown and white crab plated with violet artichoke, lemon, ginger, grapes and hazelnut. A subtly decadent majesty of a dish, containing a light balance of flavours.
Both were elegantly presented with the small touches of craftsmanship that really elevate a restaurant from a simple eatery to an experience.
Our waiter assured us that the ‘Woodburn Suckling Pig’ was enough for two people. I floundered between that and the Barbequed Monkfish (served with chorizo, mussels, herb salsa and French fries). My indecision was settled upon by an old friend ‘eenie meenie miney mo’. I couldn’t bring myself to turn down the chance to eat pork three ways, tender chops, joyous fatty belly, and meaty loin.
Sadly though, a plate of pork, no matter how you dress it, is a plate of pork. And in this case, the accompanying sauce couldn’t heighten it either. It was a great shame after two impeccable starters. The whole hog erred on the conventional, slightly unimaginative way of enjoying meat, but it was a banquet nonetheless and the pork belly was perfectly cooked. It arrived with garlic potatoes, green beans dripping with orange and hazelnuts, and a moreish buttermilk ranch salad. Its accompaniments were its saving grace.
I ended the evening with a burnt sugar tart, served with grapefruit and gin sorbet. It was downright delicious. A caramelly, honeyed tart coupled with a perfectly tangy sorbet. Delightful. On our way out we were given a goodie bag containing some salmon pastrami, which filled me with the forgotten joy of leaving a party with a bag full of goodies to eat later. The pastrami was delicious, fresh and light. They offer it as a starter, and I couldn’t recommend it enough.
Allergies:
No allergy information was provided. The front of house were knowledgeable and caring, and I am sure would inform you upon request.
City Girl Rating:
★★★★
DISCLAIMER: Food and Drinks were given to us for free in return for a review. We are always honest when it comes to reviews, as we only want to recommend places, food and products we genuinely love too.
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Written by Polly Wyatt